Vol. XXIV · Bread Plate 4 of 12kneading, folding, stretch and fold, autolyse, no-knead bread, gluten development, windowpane test, mixer, hand kneading, slap and fold, dough strength, 揉面, 醒面MT

Kneading and Folding.

A no-knead loaf left wet overnight develops as much gluten as ten minutes of hard kneading. Time does the work.

When flour meets water, glutenin and gliadin begin to bond into a network (VI.10). Kneading speeds this: stretching and folding the dough aligns the proteins, brings new surfaces together, and works in air that helps the bonds form. Ten minutes by hand or five or six in a mixer develop a lean dough until a small piece can be stretched thin enough to see light through without tearing — the windowpane test. But much of the network also forms on its own given time and water: an autolyse — flour and water left 20–60 minutes before salt and yeast — gives a dough that needs much less kneading, and a wet dough left overnight (the no-knead method) develops a full network with no kneading at all.

Folding sits between the two: every 30–45 minutes during the bulk rise, the dough is stretched up and folded over itself a few times, building strength gently while it ferments, which suits wet doughs (XXIV.3). Over-kneading by hand is nearly impossible; in a powerful mixer a dough can overheat (XXIV.6) or, eventually, break down. Fats and sugar slow development (XXIV.10); salt tightens it, which is why some bakers add salt after an autolyse. Chinese cooks call the rest 醒面, "waking the dough". The workshop develops gluten.

Below: gluten development in a 65 % hydration bread-flour dough from the minutes of kneading and of resting you choose (course gluten model, VI.10), against the level where it passes the windowpane test, and curves for kneading alone and resting alone.

What you will learn
Workshop
Course teaching model of gluten development: protein 13 %, water 65 % (75 % for the no-knead curve), knead minutes and rest minutes both contributing (1 − exp(−(knead ÷ 8 + rest ÷ 60)))). The windowpane test taken as passed above 0.75 (teaching).

Work or time, or a little of both

In the course model, ten minutes of kneading with no rest develops the dough to 0.77; four minutes of kneading after a 45-minute autolyse reaches 0.77; two minutes alone only 0.24; and a wetter dough left 12 hours with no kneading reaches 1.08. The routes differ in time and effort, not in the end: choose the one that fits the day.

Methods. Kneading by hand: push the dough away with the heel of the hand, fold it back, turn, repeat, 8–12 minutes; test with a windowpane. Autolyse: mix flour and water, rest 30 minutes covered, add salt and yeast, knead briefly. Stretch and fold: in the bowl, with a wet hand lift one side of the dough, fold it over, turn the bowl a quarter, repeat four times; do a set every 30–45 minutes for the first two hours of bulk fermentation. No-knead: mix a wet dough (75 %) with very little yeast (0.2–0.5 %), cover, leave 12–18 hours, shape gently and bake in a preheated covered pot. For 饺子 and noodle doughs, knead briefly, then 醒面 for 20–30 minutes so the dough relaxes and rolls out easily (XXVI.1).

At the stove

Make two small lean doughs: knead one for ten minutes; mix the other, rest it 45 minutes, then knead four minutes. Do the windowpane test on both.

The no-knead method was popularised in 2006 by a New York Times article on the baker Jim Lahey's loaf baked in a covered cast-iron pot; within months it had become one of the most-cooked recipes in the newspaper's history.

Terms

Kneading
Working dough to develop gluten.
Autolyse
Resting flour and water before salt and yeast so gluten forms by itself.
Windowpane test
Stretching dough thin to see light through without tearing.
醒面
Resting a dough so it relaxes and develops.
Gluten forms by work (kneading, folds) and by time (autolyse, long rests); no-knead doughs get there on time alone. Test with the windowpane; rest doughs (醒面) so they roll easily.

Sources

  1. A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.
  2. H. McGee, On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, 2nd ed., Scribner, 2004.