Vol. XXVII · The Cuisines of China Plate 10 of 12Chinese table, shared dishes, 几菜一汤, family meal, banquet, 宴席, balance, rice, soup, chopsticks, 公筷, serving chopsticks, menu planning, 冷盘, 热菜, 主食TF

The Chinese Table.

Four people, four or five dishes and a soup: the arithmetic of a family dinner — and of balance, since no two dishes may be cooked the same way.

In a Chinese meal there is no plated portion. Dishes (菜) are set in the middle for everyone; each diner has a bowl of rice (饭) or another staple, and takes a little at a time with chopsticks, eating it with the rice. The saying 几菜一汤 — "some dishes and a soup" — describes the home meal: a common rule of thumb is about as many dishes as diners, or one more, plus a soup. A balanced spread mixes a meat or fish dish or two, one or two vegetables, perhaps tofu or eggs; and a good cook varies the methods (a stir-fry, a braise, a steamed dish, a cold dish), the colours, the textures and the flavours, so that nothing repeats.

A banquet (宴席) multiplies the same idea and adds order: cold plates (冷盘) first, then hot dishes rising to a showpiece — a whole fish, which signifies abundance (年年有余), and a whole chicken or duck — then soup, a staple of noodles, dumplings or fried rice, and fruit or a sweet. Hospitality means serving guests first and keeping their bowls full. Since 2020, Chinese public health campaigns have encouraged serving chopsticks and spoons (公筷公勺) to keep diners' own chopsticks out of the shared dishes (XII.8). The workshop plans a meal.

Below: a home meal for the number of diners you choose, by the rule of thumb of one dish per diner plus one and a soup, split between meat or fish, vegetables and tofu or eggs, with the cooked food per dish for about 300 g of dishes per person (a feast about 450 g) and 150 g of cooked rice each.

What you will learn
Workshop
Rules of thumb (teaching, from common practice): home meal, dishes = diners + 1 (at least three) plus a soup, about 300 g of cooked dishes and 150 g of cooked rice per person; a feast about twice the dishes and 450 g per person. The split between meat or fish, vegetables and other dishes is a teaching balance.

Count the diners, then vary everything

By the rule of thumb, four people at home get 5 dishes and a soup, each about 240 g cooked; eight at a feast get 16 dishes, each about 225 g. More dishes, smaller portions: that is how the table offers variety without waste. Plan the cooking too: a braise and a soup can be made ahead and kept hot; a steamed dish shares the steamer with rice; stir-fries go last, one after another, because they wait badly (XXXI).

A balanced home menu for four: 红烧排骨 (braised, rich, brown), 清蒸鱼 (steamed, light, white, XXVII.5), 蒜蓉菜心 (stir-fried green, garlic), 番茄炒蛋 (quick, red and yellow, sweet-sour), and 冬瓜排骨汤 or a simple egg-drop soup; rice for everyone. Check the spread: four methods, five colours, salty, sweet-sour and fresh flavours, soft and crisp textures. Put serving chopsticks or spoons in each dish, and refrigerate leftovers within two hours (XII.11).

At the stove

Plan and cook a three-dish-and-soup dinner for your household, choosing a different cooking method for each dish. Time it so everything reaches the table together.

The fish at a Chinese New Year dinner is often left partly uneaten on purpose: 鱼 (fish) sounds like 余 (surplus), and 年年有余 — "surplus every year" — is a wish that something will be left over.

Terms

几菜一汤
"Some dishes and a soup": the home meal.
冷盘 / 热菜
Cold plates / hot dishes, the banquet's order.
主食
The staple: rice, noodles, buns.
公筷公勺
Serving chopsticks and spoons for shared dishes.
A Chinese meal is shared: about one dish per diner plus one, and a soup, with rice for each. Vary methods, colours, textures and flavours. Banquets run cold plates → hot dishes → soup → staple → fruit. Use 公筷.

Sources

  1. A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.
  2. F. Dunlop, Land of Fish and Rice: Recipes from the Culinary Heart of China (2016), The Food of Sichuan (2019) and Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food (2023).
  3. USDA FSIS, "Leftovers and Food Safety": refrigerate within two hours, eat within 3–4 days or freeze; reheat to 74 °C (165 °F). FDA Food Code 2022, 3-403.11: food reheated for hot holding reaches 74 °C within two hours.