Vol. XXXII · The Plate, the Menu and the Craft Plate 10 of 11recipe writing, testing recipes, weights, cups, measurement error, variability, hydration, cues, doneness cues, iteration, recipe testing, instructions, clarity, cookbook, reproducibilityTF

Testing and Writing a Recipe.

Ten cooks scooping cups for "500 g of flour" put anywhere from about 400 to 600 g into the bowl. A bread dough meant to be 65 % hydration ends up between about 55 % and 80 %.

A recipe that works for its author may fail for a reader for reasons the author never noticed: a hotter oven, a smaller pan, a different flour, and above all different measuring. Volume measures are imprecise for solids: a cup of flour scooped and levelled can weigh 20 % more than one spooned in gently, and both differ from cook to cook (I.5). Weights remove most of this. Times are approximate too, because pans, burners and ingredients differ, so a good recipe gives cues alongside times — "until golden and fragrant", "until a skewer slides in", "until the oil separates", "until 74 °C at the centre" (XXIX.4, XVIII.2).

Testing is how a recipe becomes reliable. The author cooks it several times from the written text, exactly as written, noting every place they had to guess; then someone else cooks it, ideally in a different kitchen, while the author watches and does not help. Each round corrects the text — a missing step, an unclear size, a time that was too short. The final recipe lists ingredients in the order used, by weight (with volume as a courtesy), names sizes and specifications (XXXI.3), gives temperatures and cues, and states yield and timing honestly. The workshop measures flour ten ways.

Below: the flour ten cooks would put in for "500 g" of flour measured by the method you choose (deterministic spread at the method's typical variation, from published measuring studies), and the hydration of a 325 g-water bread dough each would get, against the ±2-point band where the dough behaves as intended.

What you will learn
Workshop
Typical coefficients of variation (teaching values consistent with published comparisons): flour by cup, scooped, about 12 %; spooned and levelled about 6 %; by kitchen scale about 1 %. Ten cooks drawn at the deciles of a normal distribution (deterministic). Hydration = 325 g water ÷ flour; target 65 %.

Weigh it, cue it, test it

With scooped cups, the ten cooks' doughs run from about 54 % to 81 % hydration — from a stiff dough to a slack one, with different rising, shaping and baking (XXIV.3). Spooning gently halves the spread; a scale removes it. The same arithmetic applies to every powdery ingredient — sugar, cocoa, baking powder (XXV.1) — which is why baking recipes in particular should be written in grams.

Writing it: a short headnote saying what the dish is and what to expect; yield and total time honestly; ingredients in the order used, by weight, with size and type ("2 large eggs, about 110 g", "plain flour, about 11 % protein"); steps numbered, one action each, with temperatures, times and the cue that tells the cook it is done; what can be made ahead and how to store it; allergens. Then test it: cook it from the text at least twice, have someone else cook it without help, and revise every point where they hesitated.

At the stove

Measure "one cup" of flour three times by scooping and three times by spooning, weighing each. Work out the spread.

Fannie Farmer's Boston Cooking-School Cook Book of 1896 championed "level measurements" in standard cups and spoons, a great advance on the "a handful" and "butter the size of an egg" of earlier American recipes; most of the world has since gone further, to weights.

Terms

Cue
A sign of doneness: colour, smell, texture or temperature.
Coefficient of variation
Spread of a measure as a share of its average.
Recipe testing
Cooking a recipe from its text, by its author and by others.
Headnote
The short introduction to a recipe.
Write recipes for another cook: weights (cups of flour vary by ±10–20 %), sizes and specifications, temperatures and cues as well as times. Test from the text, then have someone else cook it, and fix every hesitation.

Sources

  1. A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.