Vol. XXVI · Doughs of the World Plate 5 of 10flatbreads, chapati, roti, naan, tandoor, tortilla, pita, 葱油饼, 烙饼, puffing, steam, griddle, tava, comal, thin dough, layered pancakeHT

Flatbreads.

A chapati laid on a hot tava, then held over the flame, balloons into a sphere in seconds. Nothing leavened it but its own water.

Flatbreads are the oldest breads and the fastest. Unleavened ones — chapati and roti of wholemeal flour, flour tortillas, many 饼 — are rolled thin and cooked on a dry, very hot surface: an Indian tava, a Mexican comal, a Chinese 平底锅 or 鏊子. Because they are only a few millimetres thick, heat reaches the centre in well under a minute (II.2), and if the surfaces have set into skins while the inside is still moist, the water inside turns to steam and inflates the bread into a pocket — the chapati's puff over a flame, the pita's pocket. Too thick, or a surface that cracked, and the steam escapes without puffing.

Leavened flatbreads — naan, pita, many 烧饼 — are yeasted doughs baked in fiercely hot ovens: the tandoor's clay wall, at 400 °C or more, cooks a naan stuck to it in a minute or two, charred in spots and soft inside. Layered flatbreads like 葱油饼 roll oil and scallion into a dough (often 烫面, XXVI.1), coil it, flatten it and pan-fry it, so it separates into flaky layers (XXV.8). The workshop cooks a flatbread.

Below: the seconds for the centre of a flatbread of the thickness you choose to reach the boil on a hot pan, turned every 30 seconds, at the surface temperature you choose (thermal bench, bread composition), with a teaching line: a bread whose inside boils within about a minute, while its skins are still supple and sealed, puffs readily.

What you will learn
Workshop
Thermal bench: a slab of bread composition (USDA) from 25 °C on a pan at the temperature chosen, turned every 30 seconds; time until the centre reaches 98 °C. Puffing window (teaching, from common practice): breads that boil inside within about a minute puff readily; beyond about two minutes the crust has set and tears. Real doughs are wetter than baked bread.

Thin, hot, fast — and let it puff

In this model a 2 mm flatbread on a 230 °C pan boils at its centre in about 47 seconds, a 6 mm one in about 138; against a 400 °C tandoor wall the 2 mm bread takes about 28 seconds. Thin breads therefore cook in a minute or two and the cook's job is timing and heat: hot enough to set and spot the surface quickly, not so hot that it burns before the centre is done.

Chapati: mix 250 g wholemeal (atta) flour with about 170 g warm water and a pinch of salt, knead soft, rest 30 minutes; roll 2 mm rounds; cook on a hot dry tava 30 seconds a side until spotted, then hold over a gas flame with tongs, or press the edges with a cloth, until it balloons; brush with ghee. Naan at home: a soft yeasted dough with yoghurt, stretched thin and cooked under the hottest grill on an inverted cast-iron pan, or on a smoking pan with a lid. 葱油饼: roll 烫面 thin, brush with oil and scatter salt and scallion, roll up, coil, rest, roll flat and pan-fry in a little oil over medium heat, then press and fluff to separate the layers.

At the stove

Roll two chapatis, one 2 mm and one 5 mm thick, and cook them the same way. See which puffs over the flame.

Flatbreads baked on hot stones are older than agriculture: charred remains of a flatbread of wild cereals, about 14 400 years old, were found at a Natufian site in Jordan in 2018 — four thousand years before farming began.

Terms

Tava / comal
Flat griddles for chapati and tortillas.
Tandoor
A clay oven whose hot wall cooks naan.
Puffing
A thin bread inflating as its inner water flashes to steam.
葱油饼
A coiled, layered scallion pancake.
Flatbreads are thin, so they cook in a minute or two on very hot surfaces. They puff when the inside boils before the skin sets. Naan wants a tandoor-hot surface; 葱油饼 rolls oil and scallion into layers.

Sources

  1. A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.
  2. USDA FoodData Central, SR Legacy (April 2018), public domain.