Glutinous Rice Doughs.
汤圆 and mochi are chewy without a strand of gluten. All the stretch comes from one kind of starch.
Glutinous rice (糯米) has almost no amylose (XXI.2); its starch is almost all amylopectin, the large branched molecule that swells into a sticky, cohesive gel when cooked (V.3). Ground into flour (糯米粉) and mixed with water, it makes a dough that is plastic like clay — no gluten, no spring — and easy to wrap round a filling. Cooked, the gelatinised amylopectin becomes chewy, stretchy and sticky: the texture Chinese call Q or 糯, Japanese mochi-mochi. 汤圆 and 元宵 for the Lantern Festival, 麻糍, 驴打滚, Japanese daifuku and mochi pounded from steamed whole grains (餅つき) are all this starch.
Two other properties follow. Little amylose means slow retrogradation (VII.3): glutinous rice cakes stay soft far longer than ordinary rice, though they do harden over days in the fridge. Firmer cakes are made from ordinary rice: 宁波水磨年糕 uses japonica (粳米) with about 16 % amylose, so it holds its shape in stir-fries and soups but hardens fast; Cantonese 年糕 is glutinous and sweet. And stickiness is dangerous: a soft, elastic mass can block the throat, and every New Year Japanese emergency services report deaths from mochi among elderly people. Cut it small, chew well, and supervise children. The workshop chills a rice cake.
Below: how far a cooked rice cake has firmed after the hours in the fridge you choose, for glutinous rice (about 1 % amylose) and japonica rice (about 16 %), from the course retrogradation model at 4 °C scaled by amylose (teaching, as in XXI.2).
- Explain why glutinous rice dough is chewy without gluten.
- Make 汤圆 and mochi.
- Explain why 宁波年糕 hardens faster.
- Serve rice cakes safely.
All amylopectin: soft, sticky, slow to harden
In this model, after six hours in the fridge a japonica rice cake has firmed about 0.57 of the way and a glutinous one only 0.05; after a day, 0.98 against 0.21. That is why 宁波年糕 is sold hard and sliced to be stir-fried or simmered soft again, while 汤圆 and mochi are best eaten fresh or frozen raw and cooked from frozen; mochi that has hardened is grilled or toasted, when it puffs and softens.
汤圆 (24): mix 200 g glutinous rice flour with about 180 g warm water into a soft dough like an earlobe — if it cracks when pressed, add water; if it sticks, flour. Roll balls of 15 g, press a hollow, fill with 8 g of black sesame paste (ground toasted sesame, sugar and lard), close and roll round. Boil gently, adding cold water once as for dumplings (XXVI.2), until they float and a minute more; serve in the cooking water with a little ginger or osmanthus syrup. Keep each piece small for children and older eaters, cut mochi into small bites, and never eat it in a hurry.
Make 汤圆 dough and press a ball between your fingers: watch how it cracks rather than springs back, unlike a wheat dough.
Terms
- 糯米粉
- Glutinous rice flour: almost pure amylopectin starch.
- Q / 糯
- The chewy, springy-sticky texture of glutinous rice.
- 年糕
- Rice cake: glutinous (sweet, soft) or japonica (Ningbo, firm).
- 餅つき
- Pounding steamed glutinous rice into mochi.
Sources
- Rice amylose classes used by rice breeders (IRRI; B. O. Juliano, Rice Chemistry and Technology, 3rd ed., 2003): waxy (glutinous) 0–2 %, very low 3–9 %, low 10–19 % (most japonica and jasmine), intermediate 20–25 % (many basmati), high above 25 % (many long-grain indica); higher amylose cooks drier, fluffier and firmer and hardens faster when cold.
- A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.