Vol. XXIX · The Cuisines of India Plate 6 of 11biryani, pulao, pilaf, basmati, dum, dum pukht, kacchi biryani, pakki biryani, Hyderabadi biryani, Lucknowi, par-boiling, layering, saffron, sealed pot, food safety, chicken, muttonTS

Biryani and Pulao.

A kacchi biryani seals raw marinated meat under half-cooked rice. The cook has to be sure the meat reaches safety before the rice turns to mush.

Pulao (pilaf, XXI.3) is the simpler dish: whole spices fried in ghee, perhaps onions and meat or vegetables, then washed and soaked basmati stirred in with a measured amount of stock or water, simmered covered until absorbed and rested. Biryani is a layered dish. Long-grain basmati is soaked and boiled in plenty of well-salted water with whole spices until about two-thirds cooked, then drained. A base of meat cooked in yogurt, fried onions and spices — or, in kacchi biryani, raw meat marinated in them — goes into a heavy pot; the rice is layered over it with fried onions (birista), mint, saffron milk and ghee; the lid is sealed with a rope of dough and the pot set over very low heat, often on a griddle, for dum.

Dum (दम, "breath") is steam cooking in a sealed pot: the moisture of the base turns to steam, which finishes the rice and carries the aromas up through it; nothing is stirred, so the grains stay long and separate. In pakki biryani the meat is already cooked, and the dum is short — 20 to 30 minutes. In kacchi biryani, the Hyderabadi classic, the raw meat at the bottom must cook through in the dum, which takes 45 minutes or more, so the rice is par-boiled less, the meat cut into moderate pieces and tenderised in a yogurt and papaya marinade, and the pot heavy enough to keep the bottom from burning. The workshop times a dum.

Below: the minutes for meat pieces of the size you choose, at the bottom of a biryani pot in liquid at the dum temperature you choose, to reach 74 °C at the centre (thermal bench, chicken-thigh composition, from 5 °C), against the minutes for rice par-boiled to the degree you choose to finish (teaching).

What you will learn
Workshop
Thermal bench: a slab of chicken-thigh composition (USDA) of the chosen thickness, from 5 °C, in liquid at the dum temperature; time until its centre reaches 74 °C, plus about 10 minutes for the heavy pot to come up to temperature. Rice (teaching): finishes in 10 minutes + (1 − share par-boiled) × 18 minutes × 2^((100 − T) ÷ 10). Mutton and goat take longer to become tender than to become safe.

Match the meat to the rice

In this model 40 mm pieces of raw chicken at the bottom of a pot held at 95 °C need about 46 minutes of dum, counting the pot's heat-up, and 25 mm pieces about 26. Rice par-boiled to 70 % finishes in about 18 minutes, so for kacchi biryani the rice is par-boiled only to about 40 % — finishing in about 25 — and the pieces kept moderate. Check the meat at the bottom with a thermometer the first few times; a heavy pot on a griddle (tawa) keeps the base from scorching through the long dum.

Chicken biryani (pakki, 4): marinate 700 g chicken pieces in 200 g yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, chilli, turmeric and salt for an hour; cook it in ghee with 2 sliced onions fried brown and garam masala until done. Soak 400 g basmati 30 minutes; boil in 4 L water with 40 g salt, bay leaves, cardamom and cloves until two-thirds cooked (5–6 minutes), drain. Layer the rice over the chicken, scatter fried onions, mint and coriander, drizzle 3 tbsp saffron milk and 2 tbsp ghee; seal the lid with foil or dough; cook on high 3 minutes, then on the lowest heat over a griddle 25 minutes; rest 10 minutes before opening. Serve with raita.

At the stove

Cook a small pulao by absorption and a small biryani by par-boiling and dum with the same rice. Compare how separate the grains are.

Dum pukht ("breath-cooked") is credited to the court of Awadh in Lucknow in the late eighteenth century, when, the story goes, food for workers building a great hall was cooked in huge sealed pots and kept hot for days; the method became a court cuisine of its own.

Terms

Pulao
Rice cooked with spices in a measured amount of liquid.
Biryani
Par-boiled rice layered over a spiced base and finished on dum.
Dum
Slow steam cooking in a sealed pot.
Kacchi / pakki
Raw / cooked meat under the rice.
Pulao absorbs a measured liquid; biryani layers par-boiled rice over a base and finishes sealed on dum. In kacchi biryani the raw meat must reach 74 °C: par-boil the rice less, cut the meat moderate, dum longer.

Sources

  1. USDA FoodData Central, SR Legacy (April 2018), public domain.
  2. USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service, "Safe Minimum Internal Temperature Chart" (foodsafety.gov), 2024.
  3. K. T. Achaya, Indian Food: A Historical Companion, Oxford University Press, 1994; and A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, 1998.
  4. A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.