Biryani and Pulao.
A kacchi biryani seals raw marinated meat under half-cooked rice. The cook has to be sure the meat reaches safety before the rice turns to mush.
Pulao (pilaf, XXI.3) is the simpler dish: whole spices fried in ghee, perhaps onions and meat or vegetables, then washed and soaked basmati stirred in with a measured amount of stock or water, simmered covered until absorbed and rested. Biryani is a layered dish. Long-grain basmati is soaked and boiled in plenty of well-salted water with whole spices until about two-thirds cooked, then drained. A base of meat cooked in yogurt, fried onions and spices — or, in kacchi biryani, raw meat marinated in them — goes into a heavy pot; the rice is layered over it with fried onions (birista), mint, saffron milk and ghee; the lid is sealed with a rope of dough and the pot set over very low heat, often on a griddle, for dum.
Dum (दम, "breath") is steam cooking in a sealed pot: the moisture of the base turns to steam, which finishes the rice and carries the aromas up through it; nothing is stirred, so the grains stay long and separate. In pakki biryani the meat is already cooked, and the dum is short — 20 to 30 minutes. In kacchi biryani, the Hyderabadi classic, the raw meat at the bottom must cook through in the dum, which takes 45 minutes or more, so the rice is par-boiled less, the meat cut into moderate pieces and tenderised in a yogurt and papaya marinade, and the pot heavy enough to keep the bottom from burning. The workshop times a dum.
Below: the minutes for meat pieces of the size you choose, at the bottom of a biryani pot in liquid at the dum temperature you choose, to reach 74 °C at the centre (thermal bench, chicken-thigh composition, from 5 °C), against the minutes for rice par-boiled to the degree you choose to finish (teaching).
- Cook pulao by absorption.
- Par-boil and layer a biryani.
- Seal and cook on dum.
- Make kacchi biryani safely.
Match the meat to the rice
In this model 40 mm pieces of raw chicken at the bottom of a pot held at 95 °C need about 46 minutes of dum, counting the pot's heat-up, and 25 mm pieces about 26. Rice par-boiled to 70 % finishes in about 18 minutes, so for kacchi biryani the rice is par-boiled only to about 40 % — finishing in about 25 — and the pieces kept moderate. Check the meat at the bottom with a thermometer the first few times; a heavy pot on a griddle (tawa) keeps the base from scorching through the long dum.
Chicken biryani (pakki, 4): marinate 700 g chicken pieces in 200 g yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, chilli, turmeric and salt for an hour; cook it in ghee with 2 sliced onions fried brown and garam masala until done. Soak 400 g basmati 30 minutes; boil in 4 L water with 40 g salt, bay leaves, cardamom and cloves until two-thirds cooked (5–6 minutes), drain. Layer the rice over the chicken, scatter fried onions, mint and coriander, drizzle 3 tbsp saffron milk and 2 tbsp ghee; seal the lid with foil or dough; cook on high 3 minutes, then on the lowest heat over a griddle 25 minutes; rest 10 minutes before opening. Serve with raita.
Cook a small pulao by absorption and a small biryani by par-boiling and dum with the same rice. Compare how separate the grains are.
Terms
- Pulao
- Rice cooked with spices in a measured amount of liquid.
- Biryani
- Par-boiled rice layered over a spiced base and finished on dum.
- Dum
- Slow steam cooking in a sealed pot.
- Kacchi / pakki
- Raw / cooked meat under the rice.
Sources
- USDA FoodData Central, SR Legacy (April 2018), public domain.
- USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service, "Safe Minimum Internal Temperature Chart" (foodsafety.gov), 2024.
- K. T. Achaya, Indian Food: A Historical Companion, Oxford University Press, 1994; and A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, 1998.
- A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.