Spherification.
Drop a spoon of alginate-laced melon juice into a calcium bath and a skin forms in seconds. Leave the sphere on the plate, and twenty minutes later its skin is more than twice as thick and chewy.
Sodium alginate, extracted from brown seaweed, dissolves in water as long chains carrying negative charges. Calcium ions, with two positive charges, bridge neighbouring chains — the "egg-box" structure — and the solution gels instantly where calcium reaches it (X.9). Spherification exploits this at a surface. In direct spherification, about 0.5 % alginate is blended into the flavoured liquid, which is dropped into a bath of about 0.5–1 % calcium chloride or lactate; calcium diffuses inwards and a skin forms. Because the calcium keeps diffusing, the skin keeps thickening, even after rinsing, so direct spheres — "caviar" from a syringe, small spheres — are made at the last minute.
In reverse spherification the liquid itself contains calcium (from a dairy product, or added calcium lactate gluconate) and is dropped into an alginate bath; the skin forms outside the drop, and once the sphere is lifted and rinsed in water there is no more alginate to gel, so it stops thickening — reverse spheres keep, and can be large, like elBulli's "liquid olives" (2005). Both are limited by chemistry: alginate does not dissolve or gel well below about pH 3.6, so acidic liquids need a little sodium citrate; liquids rich in calcium gel the alginate before it reaches the bath, so they are made reverse; and the skin's growth follows diffusion — thickness grows with the square root of time (III.8). The workshop forms a sphere.
Below: the thickness of the gel skin on a sphere of the diameter you choose, after the minutes you choose in the bath and the minutes it waits afterwards, by direct or reverse spherification (diffusion law, thickness = 2√(D t), with a teaching diffusivity for calcium in alginate gel; direct spheres keep gelling at half speed after rinsing, reverse spheres stop).
- Explain alginate–calcium gelling.
- Make direct and reverse spheres.
- Predict skin thickness with time.
- Handle acidic and calcium-rich liquids.
Diffusion sets the clock
After two minutes in a calcium bath the skin is about 0.62 mm thick — enough to hold the sphere. A direct sphere left 20 minutes on the plate goes on gelling to about 1.52 mm, and a 10 mm direct sphere would be gel right through in about 130 minutes of continued gelling. That is why direct "caviar" is made just before serving, and why spheres to be held are made by the reverse method, which stops when rinsed.
Direct "caviar": blend 2.5 g sodium alginate into 500 g of a smooth, not too acidic juice or purée (add 1–2 g sodium citrate if it is below about pH 4), rest it in the fridge to release air bubbles; make a bath of 5 g calcium chloride (or 10 g calcium lactate, which is less bitter) in 1 L water. Drip the juice from a syringe into the bath, leave 30–60 seconds, lift with a slotted spoon, rinse in clean water and serve at once. Reverse spheres: mix calcium lactate gluconate (about 2 %) into the food, drop spoonfuls into a 0.5 % alginate bath for 2–3 minutes, rinse, and keep in oil or a matching liquid.
Make a few direct spheres of a juice and eat one at once and one after 15 minutes. Compare the skin.
Terms
- Sodium alginate
- A seaweed extract that gels instantly with calcium.
- Direct spherification
- Alginate in the food, calcium in the bath; keeps gelling.
- Reverse spherification
- Calcium in the food, alginate in the bath; stops when rinsed.
- Egg-box gel
- Calcium bridging alginate chains.
Sources
- N. Kurti, "The physicist in the kitchen", Royal Institution Friday Evening Discourse, 14 March 1969; the first International Workshop on Molecular and Physical Gastronomy, Erice, 1992 (Kurti and H. This); G. Pralus's sous-vide foie gras for the Troisgros restaurant, 1974; F. Adrià, H. Blumenthal, T. Keller and H. McGee, "Statement on the new cookery", The Observer, 10 December 2006; N. Myhrvold, C. Young and M. Bilet, Modernist Cuisine, 2011.
- CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics: diffusion coefficients in water at 25 °C — sodium chloride 1.61 × 10⁻⁹ m²/s, sucrose 0.52 × 10⁻⁹ m²/s. In plant tissue both are lower; the course halves them.
- A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.