Vol. XIX · Fish and Seafood Plate 5 of 9shellfish, prawns, shrimp, mussels, clams, oysters, squid, lobster, crab, rubbery, overcooked, live shellfish, opening, 虾, 贝MH

Shellfish.

A prawn curled into a loose C is done; curled into a tight O, it is overdone. The shape is a thermometer.

Shellfish are muscle too — the prawn's tail, the mussel's and scallop's adductor, the squid's mantle — and like fish their proteins set at low temperatures. A prawn turns from grey and translucent to pink and opaque as its centre passes about 55–60 °C; by 70 °C it has tightened and is losing juice, and by 90 °C it is rubbery and curled into a tight ring. Small prawns in boiling water take a minute or two. Mussels and clams are cooked in a covered pot with a little liquid and are done as soon as their shells open, a few minutes; scallops want only a hard sear on each face with the centre barely warm.

Live bivalves must be alive before cooking: their shells closed, or closing when tapped. Discard any with broken shells or that stay open. Lobsters and crabs are bought live or freshly cooked; their flesh spoils fast after death. Squid and octopus are the exception to "cook briefly": their muscle has much collagen, so they are either cooked for under two minutes, before it tightens, or braised for 30–60 minutes until the collagen softens (XVIII.9) — anything between is rubber. The workshop boils prawns.

Below: the centre temperature reached by 14 mm prawns dropped into boiling water for the minutes you choose and then into iced water (thermal bench), with the bands for translucent, just done and rubbery.

What you will learn
Workshop
Thermal bench: a peeled prawn as a 14 mm cylinder of shrimp flesh (USDA FoodData Central composition) from 4 °C, in boiling water for the minutes chosen, then one minute in iced water. Bands from the course's fish-protein setting range: translucent below 55 °C, just done 55–70 °C, rubbery above.

Minutes, not more

In this model a 14 mm prawn reaches about 53 °C at its centre after one minute in boiling water, 69 °C after a minute and a half — just done — and 91 °C after three, when it is tight and rubbery, having lost about 36 % of its weight against 31 %. So prawns are cooked in moments: dropped into boiling salted water and lifted out as soon as they curl and turn pink, or stir-fried over high heat for a minute or two, or added to a curry or soup at the very end.

Mussels and clams: scrub, discard any that are open and do not close when tapped or are broken; steam them in a covered pot with a splash of wine or stock, shaking, until they open (3–5 minutes); take them out as they open. Those that stay shut after the rest have opened are usually just stubborn and not necessarily bad, but if in doubt leave them. Oysters and clams eaten raw carry risks from the water they filtered (XIX.7). Squid: slice and cook for 60–90 seconds in a hot wok, or simmer for 45 minutes in a sauce.

At the stove

Cook six prawns in boiling water, lifting out two at one minute, two at a minute and a half and two at three minutes. Compare their curl and their bite.

The pink of cooked prawns and lobster is astaxanthin, a red carotenoid from their diet; in the live animal it is bound to a protein that makes it blue-grey, and heat unfolds the protein and frees the red — the same denaturation that sets the flesh.

Terms

Bivalve
A shellfish with two hinged shells: mussel, clam, oyster, scallop.
Adductor
The muscle that holds a bivalve's shells shut; the edible part of a scallop.
Astaxanthin
The red pigment freed when shellfish cook.
Rubbery
Overcooked shellfish whose proteins have tightened hard.
Shellfish set at low temperatures and cook in minutes: prawns pink and in a loose C, mussels just opened. Bivalves must be alive before cooking. Squid: under two minutes or over half an hour.

Sources

  1. USDA FoodData Central, SR Legacy (April 2018), public domain.
  2. A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.
  3. H. McGee, On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, 2nd ed., Scribner, 2004.