Vol. III · Water Plate 8 of 11diffusion, osmosis, brine, cure, marinade, salt penetration, Fick's lawHMT

Osmosis and Diffusion.

Salt spreads into meat the way heat does, by diffusion — but a thousand times more slowly. A day buys millimetres.

Put a chicken breast in brine and the salt starts to move in. It does so by diffusion: dissolved ions wandering at random, more of them moving from where they are many to where they are few. The mathematics is the same as for heat (II.1–2) — Fick's law instead of Fourier's — so the same square law holds: twice as deep takes four times as long. But the diffusivity of salt in meat is around 10⁻¹⁰ m²/s, about a thousand times smaller than heat's, so where heat crosses a centimetre in minutes, salt needs a day.

Water moves too. Where salt or sugar is concentrated outside the cells, water is drawn out of them by osmosis — which is how salting draws water from cucumbers and cabbage (XIV.4) and how a dry cure pulls moisture from ham. The workshop soaks a slab of meat in brine.

Below: the salt concentration across a slab of meat in brine after the time you choose (as a share of the brine's), with the depth reached by a tenth of it and the rule of thumb 2√(Dt).

What you will learn
Workshop
Salt diffusing into a slab of meat from both faces (Fick's law solved on the water bench; diffusivity about 4 × 10⁻¹⁰ m²/s at 20 °C, slower in the fridge). Concentration is shown as a share of the brine's, from the surface inward.

Millimetres a day

In the fridge, an hour in brine takes salt only about 1.8 mm into the meat; a day takes it about 9.8 mm, and in a thick piece three days take it 16.7 mm against 10.0 mm for one — the square law again, where three times the time buys only about 1.7 times the depth. At room temperature diffusion is a little faster (12.7 mm in a day), but brining should be done cold for safety. For a 30 mm slab, a day brings the whole piece to 33 % of the brine's concentration on average, the centre to 3 %.

So brines and marinades are surface treatments for anything thick. A brine works on a chicken breast or a pork chop overnight, and on a turkey only partly; injecting brine (as hams are cured) or cutting the meat thinner works where soaking cannot. Large molecules — the flavours of herbs, garlic and spices in a marinade — move even more slowly than salt and barely pass the surface; acids and enzymes in marinades act only where they reach (XVIII.5).

At the stove

Cut a thick slice of potato or a piece of chicken in half after a night in a brine coloured with a few drops of food colouring or a little soy sauce. The coloured rim shows how far the liquid travelled — usually a few millimetres, however long the recipe promised.

Adolf Fick, a physiologist, published his law of diffusion in 1855, explicitly by analogy with Fourier's law of heat conduction.

Terms

Diffusion
Molecules spreading from where they are concentrated to where they are scarce by random movement.
Fick's law
The flow of a dissolved substance is proportional to its concentration gradient.
Osmosis
Water moving across a membrane towards the more concentrated solution.
Diffusivity
How fast a substance spreads; for salt in meat about 10⁻¹⁰ m²/s, a thousand times slower than heat.
Salt and flavour spread by diffusion, a thousand times slower than heat: a day reaches millimetres, not centimetres.

Sources

  1. A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.