Vol. XXIII · The Everyday Cook Plate 2 of 12pantry, store cupboard, staples, shelf life, first in first out, FIFO, rancidity, oils, flour, nuts, spices, storage, freezer, 储藏柜ST

The Pantry.

A bag of walnuts keeps a few months in the cupboard and over a year in the freezer. Nothing about the nuts changed except their temperature.

A pantry is less a list than a system: a stock of staples that, with a few fresh ingredients, makes most meals possible. A useful core covers starches (rice, pasta, noodles, flour, oats), proteins that keep (dried beans and lentils, tins of fish and beans, eggs, tofu in the fridge), fats (a neutral oil, olive oil, butter, sesame oil), seasonings (salt, soy sauce, vinegars, fish sauce, miso, chilli, stock), aromatics (onions, garlic, ginger), spices and dried herbs, and tins of tomatoes and coconut milk. Each cuisine adds its own (XXVII.3, XXVIII.1, XXIX.1).

Stock is rotated first in, first out: new purchases go behind the old, and the oldest is used first. Most dry goods keep for a long time but slowly lose quality: spices lose their volatile aromas within a year or two (XI.8), flour and grains can be invaded by pantry moths if not sealed, and anything containing unsaturated fat — nuts, seeds, wholemeal flour, brown rice, oils — goes rancid as oxygen attacks it (IX.4). That reaction speeds up with temperature, so cold storage multiplies shelf life. The workshop stores a fat.

Below: how long a fatty pantry item keeps before turning rancid at the storage temperature you choose, from typical room-temperature guidance scaled by the course's oxidation kinetics (activation energy 80 kJ/mol).

What you will learn
Workshop
Room-temperature keeping times (sealed, dark; typical USDA FoodKeeper-style guidance): refined oil 12 months, olive oil 18, walnut oil 3, shelled nuts 4, wholemeal flour 3, brown rice 6. Scaled to other temperatures by the course rancidity rate with an activation energy of 80 kJ/mol (teaching), so the fridge multiplies the time about 6–7 times and the freezer by over a hundred.

Rotate, seal, and keep the fats cold

Shelled nuts that keep about four months in a 20 °C cupboard keep about 27 months in the fridge and, on these kinetics, years in the freezer; in a 30 °C kitchen in summer they last only about 1.4 months. The fridge multiplies keeping time about 6.7-fold for anything that goes rancid. So: buy nuts, seeds, wholemeal flour and specialty oils in small amounts, keep them cold, and smell before use — rancid fat smells of paint, crayons or cardboard (IX.4).

Keep oils away from the stove's heat and from light, which starts oxidation; olive oil in dark glass or tins. Buy whole spices and grind as needed, toast them briefly to wake them up (XI.9), and replace ground spices once a year. Seal flour, grains and dried fruit in jars against moths and damp. Write the opening date on soy sauce, oyster sauce and pastes, and keep the ones that say so in the fridge. Discard bulging, leaking or deeply dented tins (XIII.8).

At the stove

Take everything out of one cupboard, check dates and smells, put the oldest at the front, and write down the five staples you use most — those are your pantry core.

Ancient Egyptian and Chinese granaries were the first pantries on a civic scale; the Chinese 常平仓 ("ever-normal granary") system, from the Han dynasty, bought grain when prices were low and sold it when high to steady supply — first in, first out on the scale of a state.

Terms

Pantry
A store of non-perishable staples.
FIFO
First in, first out: use the oldest stock first.
Rancid
Spoiled by oxidation of fats (IX.4).
Shelf life
How long a food keeps its quality.
A pantry is a system of staples used first in, first out. Fats in nuts, oils and whole grains go rancid, faster when warm: the fridge multiplies their life several-fold, the freezer far more.

Sources

  1. Typical storage guidance for oils, nuts and wholemeal flour at room temperature, sealed and dark: refined oils about a year, olive oil 18 months to two years, walnut and other polyunsaturated oils a few months, shelled nuts and wholemeal flour a few months; cold storage extends it several-fold (USDA FoodKeeper). The course scales these with an Arrhenius activation energy of 80 kJ/mol, a teaching value.
  2. A teaching value chosen for the course: the right order of magnitude and shape, not a measurement of a particular food.